Zypern auf eigene Faust | WDR Reisen

Zypern auf eigene Faust | WDR Reisen


Subtitles: WDR mediagroup Ltd.
on behalf of the WDR Today we visit
a very special island beauty. Cyprus has everything,
what a place of longing needs. And helloumi. Delicious, exotic and always
with a penchant for great adventure. So spectacular the views, so dramatic
the history of the island. Look at the railing.
Oh, my God. Oh, my God. An island to discover.
And not to tell anyone else. Please keep it secret. All right, we’ll tell you,
how beautiful it can be here. * Music * Cyprus lies 4.5 flight hours
away from Germany in the eastern Mediterranean. Over a million people are living on the island. The capital is Nicosia. And as you can see,
through the capital and through the whole island is
a kind of boundary, more about that later. We begin our journey at
the legendary place in the south of the island. * Music * It happened right here. On this rock, Aphrodite,
the legendary goddess of beauty, of love and lust,
came out of the sea. Foamborn. If you want to swim around this rock, eternal youth is guaranteed. There are a few small conditions: It must be Sunday. You have to do it twice,
I’d better swim around three more times. And it must be a full moon. Welcome to Cyprus. I guess Aphrodite can’t have looked elegant
getting out of there, because of the stones,
but goddesses kind of float. So whoever’s got swim shoes,
has a clear advantage. But I’m just about to
I don’t want to go into the water anyway. We’re going to Pafos now.
in the west of the island. That’s only 25 km away,
but still an adventure. Cyprus has left-hand traffic. My personal adventure. The steering wheel is
on the wrong side. The belt too. It’s been ages. I used to do that.
100 years ago in England… I don’t remember,
we’ll just make it nice. Most worried
actually makes me turn. Everything else
you get there somehow. Yeah, great. Is the turn signal also
on the other side, is there? The windshield wiper. Help! Help! The indicator
is on the other side. Where’s the indicator on our side?
is the windshield wiper. Phew. It’s still on. How does it go out?
for Christ’s sake? Maybe like this. Probably
the tourists can be seen, because in the best weather.
with a windshield wiper. My tip already:
Automatic. At least you don’t need with the left hand
I’m just gonna shift it around somehow. Western Cyprus
is becoming more and more popular with tourists. The area is booming. And thank God you can find the very bad bed castles
here only rarely. But a lot of nature
and more history. Which strikes me right away: Such a walk
through ancient excavation sites in Germany would be completely
impossible, there would be fences everywhere. But the Cypriots are cultivating
a very relaxed approach with their history. And rejoice in everyone, who
interested in their island. Cyprus was also in antiquity
is important, as a strategic bridgehead
between Europe and the Middle East. The Venetians were here.
Ottomans and, of course, Greeks. And the Egyptians. And they all
leave their mark. A necropolis, a necropolis.
may not be the first, what you
for your vacation. But the royal tombs at Pafos
you should have a look. And “King’s Tombs”
thickly applied. That’s what they call it,
because it looks grand, but there were no kings at all. There was a pharaoh who was like this.
2,300 years ago in Greece. Here
high administrative buried and the rich and the beautiful. * Music * The fortress of Pafos. For the past 20 years.
from the medieval village a city by the sea,
with its own charm. 2017 was Pafos.
even European Capital of Culture. That’s what’s got the city
I also gave him a boost. Tourist centre is
the wide harbour promenade. You see more
Fishing boats as yachts. And very special permanent residents. * Music * The restaurant’s called Pelikan. And this includes
this pelican, too. It’s part of the restaurant. By the way, this is
my guide to the West, Andreas Papayiani. He’s an architect.
friends with the restaurant chef. She’s 10 years old, and she’s already
I came to us as a baby. She’s going swimming, too,
but she keeps coming back. Can I touch it?
– Of course. Feels great. Yeah, he’s happy now, yeah. He has now, I tell you,
1/2 kg in the belly. I’m done. That’s it. The pelican before that,
he was male, his name was Kokos. Now, of course, he’s ahead,
I don’t know, died 15 years ago. And now they’ve taken new ones. She’s a female, though. It’s called now, of course.
not coconut, but coculla. Because it’s a she. So that’s the female form.
– Yeah, that’s it. Your name’s Andreas, my name’s Andrea. Then I am?
– Androulla. Androulla. Like Maria, for example,
then it’s Maroulla. Is that typical Cypriot?
– Yeah, that’s typical. Then you may
Androulla to me. From now on, you’re Androulla.
and I’m Andreas. Andreas previously
worked near Aachen and was a few years ago
back to the island, near Pafos,
to his parents’ village. Working where others go on holiday? More like homesick to Cyprus, with all the little peculiarities,
the island has to offer. The coffee’s coming. (speaks Greek) What’s important
like the handle from the cup, I’ll tell you about the cup,
where it says. If he looks inside,
the handle, it’s a sk�ttos. Inside to the plate. No sugar. It’s a little weird. It’s m�trios.
A little sugar. Should stand the cup like this,
to the outside, then legis. That’s cute.
– Not quite. There’s also the very sweet one,
there’s three spoonfuls of sugar. That’s the sweetest variety,
that a little sugar. And that’s without it.
– That’s it. Then I may pass you the cup… The first coffee with a Cypriot.
– That’s my sk�ttos. That’s it. So, stin iji� mas. Do they say iji� mas with coffee?
– Yes, it is. Good, and isn’t too strong either. Now get out of town. Andreas wants to come with me
to the Avakas Gorge. It’ll take three quarters of an hour.
and should be a nature experience. One more tip: In Pafos there is a
2nd archaeological highlight, right behind the harbor. 2 huge villas
in the archaeological park. The plant with the mosaics belongs,
just like the royal tombs, UNESCO World Heritage Site. I may now
sitting in the passenger seat. I think it’s very relaxed. I respect roundabouts. You always have to turn left. But still,
right before left also applies here. I always notice when I’m in Cyprus.
then I always think, Steering wheel must be in the middle of the road
then you’re in the right place. Sometimes, as I said,
you don’t know, you’re left now.
or you’re not right. If it’s
there is no median strip e.g. Then you’re still… It’s not on the outside,
the steering wheel. So, middle of the street. The steering wheel must always be
in the middle of the street. Then I’m right.
– Yes, it is. It’s the same in Germany.
You’re on the other side. Oh, I see. * Music * You can see it from a distance,
who’s a tourist? Because of driving? Yes, with tourists in general…
Yeah, anyway. You can tell by the cars. Like the rental cars, the tourists,
they have this red shield. Oh, they’ve got
a red license plate? Yes. You can tell right from that: Aha, watch out, more or less.
They don’t know their stuff. That’s very kind of you, that you’re going to
a red license plate. * Music * Now it’s getting jerky.
Potholes without end. Many visitors ride here with
the normal rental car. I wouldn’t do that. The ravine starts back there.
My first walk in Cyprus. So when I walk through here,
like now, this sound of water and
the little birds singing. Or you might see a little
a little snake. They’re not dangerous. I enjoy this nature here. Cyprus
it gets really hot in summer. But just then
this hike offers itself. The river always provides
for a little moisture. And the cliffs
are getting closer and closer to the way and provide shade. There’s one thing you should do.
in the cooler months of the year: The river has been flowing for thousands of years.
limestone eaten and flows in a very narrow bed. When it’s raining,
it can suddenly rise. But no danger today.
Just fascinating. * Music * There are 2 ways
out of the canyon. Either you go
back at the river or once all the way up
and then on the outside. About 10 km, until you’re back
arrives at the beginning of the gorge and with that: by the sea. * Music * The West Coast of Cyprus
is the Evening Coast. Here you can find the most beautiful
Cocktail bars for the sundowner. This one’s called Oniro by the sea.
and actually did, as they say so beautifully,
a unique selling proposition: a shipwreck. That makes the Oniro
strangely enough, in recent years. to a hotspot for bridal couples
and her wedding photos. A little bizarre. But also very romantic. * Music * The first day in Cyprus
was surprising. And the second one gets even better. We drive from Pafos to Stroumpi,
Andreas lives there. Then we go on to the
largest nature reserve in Cyprus, to the Akamas Peninsula. The flag is in Stroumpi,
but not because of us. Weekends are village festivals. When I went to Andreas
I get in his jeep, he’s already got some new plans. We’ve got to get together first.
to earn our lunch. And earning means reaping. Where? Where? Anywhere. Andreas thinks
It’s all growing all over here. Just take a dirt road
and then go looking. * Music * That’s my brother’s field. And there’s
a lot of wild herbs here. My corner of the eye is open.
a wild asparagus. Right there. You see that? That’s the one.
– That’s him, all right. You have to
really look three times. Take the bottom off? No, it’s too hard. A little up here,
where it’s a little tender. Here, for example, there. Oh, dear.
but pick for a long time. Or it’s an intermediate. There are several places,
where to find such things. How juicy,
the water’s running out down there. Yeah, yeah, that’s nice and juicy. Look at this,
he’s pretty fat. Oh, yeah, that’s enough for one person. I don’t think so. Learned something again: Cypriots like Andreas are
incredibly proud of their island, especially everything,
what’s growing here. Good food means good life. Do you have a key? I’m afraid I don’t have a key, but I think
I can open it like that. Wait a minute, wait a minute,
I’ll put the box there. And then I try to move forward…
No, I can’t do that. Then you have to
a little backwards, like this. Ah, there you go. There you go. That’s the way it works. And then we carry… You don’t need keys here.
– No, I’m not. It’s decoration.
– Is decoration, the key. I’m serious: This olive and artichoke grove
belongs to a brother of Andreas. Or was it a cousin? We’re definitely allowed in here,
Andreas said. And he must know. The artichoke will be so
cleaned up in a hurry. Then you can take the floor out. Basically,
that’s how you do it. And of course you can also use the
with a nice garlic sauce. We always dip the leaves
and eat them like this. You can eat it that way. Really? Roughly I have the
never eaten. But only the tip in front.
– Yes, it is. This hair has to come out. Oh, and that
you can fry now. Can be fried, cooked.
You can eat like that. If we had a lemon,
a little salt, tastes even better. Delicious. Delicate, huh?
– Yeah, great. I never would’ve guessed,
that you can eat them raw. Andreas thinks Cypriot cuisine
first of all is a vegetable kitchen. I didn’t know that either. Our lunch
is going to be fine, with wild asparagus
and freshly picked artichokes. Ella, Androulla, ella. What does “ella” mean?
– “Come on, take this.” So that’ll have to do. Now we need to find somebody else
who’ll cook it for us. * Music * Latchi on the north coast. Here Andreas has a friend,
he owns a restaurant. * Music * That’s the Giorgos. How do you do? Andrea.
– Georg. You speak German.
– Yeah, a little bit. What can I do for you? We have here very fresh artichokes
and delicious fresh asparagus. And you’re the wizard now,
you have to do some magic. Okay, let’s do it. In 1/2 h, three-quarters of an hour
we’ll be back. We are curious,
what you can prepare for us. I’ll surprise you.
– Great, thank you. I’ll see you later. Ciao. Whether Giorgos and his kitchen crew the artichokes
I would have assumed, when I’m alone
would have arrived here without Andreas? Probably not. I’m pretty curious,
how they prepare them now. Pluck one at a time
I don’t see it, anyway. Instead: The ground is being hacked, and then it goes with lots of onions
and garlic in the pan. * Music * On the way
for a vegetarian lunch. And on top of that. toasted bread
with goat cheese and tomatoes. Olive oil over
and briefly into the oven. Oh, what have we got there that’s good?
– The artichokes from before. This looks good. Efcharist�.
(Giorgos) Enjoy your meal. Yeah, well done. Very tasty. Almost tastes like meat. Better than meat. A Cypriot, of course.
always a little lemon. Lemon belongs
to Cypriot cuisine. Always, no matter if it’s meat or
Lemon is part of it. May I present to you…
Or would you like to do it yourself? What a meal. And there’s a present to go with it. If you win the backpack,
this glass of olives is yours and that of Andreas
hand-pressed olive oil. From his own olive tree.
Or his cousin’s. * Music * A few hundred meters
from the restaurant one of the
the most famous circular hiking trails in Cyprus. Who do you think it’s named after? Aphrodite, of course. The way leads
through a small jungle to a mythical source,
to the bath of Aphrodite. * Music * Well, that’s a short one,
I’d like a nice walk over here. You can do that, too,
when it’s crunchy hot in here. It’s nice and cool here.
It’s a love cave. Here’s Aphrodite,
the goddess of beauty, with lovers. Of course, they had to
at least be very, very beautiful. So, with Adonis.
she met here, here. And also with Akamas. He was a prince, he was so beautiful, that you can take the whole peninsula
named after him. Then they met here,
for one night, well understood, and then they were betrayed. Then Aphrodite had to
back to Olympus, to her jealous husband. A story,
how she’s been a million times still happens today
in the world. The Aphrodite Nature Trail. is longer
than just the little piece to the bathroom. He leads in the middle
to the Akamas nature reserve. And if you want, you can leave here. too
for hikes lasting several days. Then you’re really
all alone with nature. And it’s beautiful here. * Music * And now, conservationists.
please take a quick look away. Because there’s
another possibility altogether, to experience the Akamas peninsula. With dune buggies. Louder, faster
and with a little adrenaline kick. I did the tour
Let Andreas do it alone. Wild off-road driving. Even the nature lover
I can’t resist it. * Music * But the most beautiful
is already the calm afterwards. The nearest coastal town Latchi
is also nice and quiet. Here Cypriots have
their little boats are lying. And some fishermen
there is. Cyprus is a village,
and the best thing is, that half the people in this town
was somehow in Germany. They like us, they’re happy, when they hear,
that you’re from Germany. Now Andreas has again
out of a hat, which gives us the most beautiful bathing bay
in Cyprus. And the best:
He’s got a boat, too. * Music * Now it’s around Akamas on the outside, past the bizarre cliffs
Westbound. Also for Andreas the boat tour is
something special today. He hasn’t been here that many times. The coast is getting closer,
the water is almost unreal blue. You’ve got us
to this bay. It’s your favorite bay. What’s the matter with you? Yeah, it’s nice here, isn’t it? And the water’s clean,
you can look down on the floor. There are
many beautiful places in Cyprus, but this bay is very special. For me, the most important thing is when
I come in here with my boat, it’s almost my private book,
there’s hardly any people here. Around the corner
lies the famous Blue Lagoon, but there are so many people coming,
I don’t like that. So it’s our secret.
– Yes, please keep it secret. So much nature
and even more history and legends. I used to have these in the grandstands.
of an ancient bath. Supposedly even has here,
No, not Aphrodite, but bathed Cleopatra. * Music * (singing Greek) The next day
I want to go to the Troodos Mountains. But because there
there’s no direct connection, I have to talk about Pafos.
and drive the coastal highway and then from the south.
up to Omodos and Kakopetria. Well, it’s starting already, that I always
I’m running on the wrong side. And I wonder,
that there’s no steering wheel. Today’s my first real driving day. The little piece with windscreen wiper,
Windshield wipers off doesn’t count. Today I have to drive properly,
about 100 km. Up mountains. Could the streets be narrow, too. And I have to
always stay to the left. Keep your fingers crossed for me. * Music * Cyprus is a sunny island: 340 days a year without rain. Still, there’s quite a lot
Agriculture, especially viticulture. How does it work in this heat? I got a tip. I’m supposed to be with the Makarounas family.
I’d like to stop by. Halfway up the mountain. They’re laying
a new vineyard. And really: The whole family’s on the field. He’s the new young boss:
Theodoros Makarounas. The planting is still going on.
just like 100 years ago. Namely by hand and
using all generations. First Grandma helps
when slurrying in. Your grandma?
– Yes, yes. The plant itself
is then used by Mama. Your mother?
– Yes, my mother. Then there’s a short discussion, who now how extensively
to tramp the ground. Because that’s what’s essential. And then at the end, who can
the young wine instinct? Right: Grandfather. Grandpa?
– Yes. You just did that.
a little watered. Is that it for this year? It’s so hot in summer. No, there is a village down in the village.
a water reservoir. We’ll see that we can
I can pull hoses up here, so that the plants at least
a few drops a day. And when’s the first wine coming?
from these grapes? In four years. Good luck.
– Thank you. One thing is clear to me
on this visit: A family business is beautiful,
but it also does a lot of work. Cause somehow everyone’s the boss
and has a lot to say. But Theodorus will stay calm. The last vine in the new mountain
by the way, is not with water, but with the best red wine
of the house. Just like 100 years ago. I wish you a good wine. Good luck. Andrea ese�s, Andrea eg�.
– Oh, great. Andrea ni? If that ever
not a good droplet. After 3 years the vines see
by the way. It’s getting too hot in the fields. We’re going
in Theodoros’ home village of Letimvou. Lunch with the Makarounas family. * Music * One more beautiful than the other, isn’t it?
They taste good too, of course. And the family is lovely. We all know them now,
Four generations. There must be a bottle of wine.
in the red backpack. Theodoros, which wine
do you recommend us? I’ll make you a white wine. A Cuv�e
from Xynisteri and Chardonnay. Efcharist�. We’ll let him, too. We’re going up now.
to the Troodos Mountains. Just me, my navigator.
and the Greek alphabet. * Navi * “The course of the road from
Alpha, Rho, Xi, Alpha, Gamma, Gamma, Epsilon, Lambda, Omicron, Epsilon,
My, Iota, Xi, Alpha, Eta, Lambda for 2 km. After 600 m turn right onto
Gamma, Epsilon, Omega, Rho, Gamma, Iota, Omikron, Epsilon, Gamma, Rho,
Iota, Beta, Alpha, Delta, Iota, Gamma, Epsilon, Ny, Eta.” It’s completely crazy. Before this navigation this road
the last of his spelling, I’ll be a mile past it anyway. Except for the fact that
I understand Alpha and Omega letters. and maybe Delta,
then it’s off. 1 h and many Omegas later
I arrive in Omodos. One of the most beautiful places of Cyprus and
especially the secret cat capital. * Music * The Cat Love of the Cypriots
is legendary, allegedly they have
freed the island from the snakes. That’s why
the islanders take care of to this day around the animals. What are you looking at? Can they buy you, too? But a few fleas, perhaps? It doesn’t matter, does it? There are cats here, too. That’s right, I need
I’ll get you something for the backpack. Actually, I should be in Omodos this table
and buy place mats. They’re very typical, but I’m looking for
for something else. You’d have to get to that now, wouldn’t you? The little snake shows it
I know: This is the right place for me. Time for the most Cypriot
Brings, anyway. A gift
with incredible abilities. Um, a schnapps. I know, I know,
what you’re about to think. Because we’ve only been here
a bottle of wine in here, this isn’t gonna be a booze backpack. But this is where Zivania has to go. Zivania is,
you could say a booze. A grape marc schnapps. But it would be mean. Every Cypriot,
I’d be offended if anybody heard that. It’s a national drink,
it’s a panacea, it’s medicine,
it’s stain remover. And so for envelopes, embrocations. The next morning it’s all over again.
I’ll be fine if you put Zivania on it. It’s going in the red backpack. Hello. One Zivania please. No, I don’t want him.
I don’t think you should try it. I still have to drive. Most day trippers
from the tourist strongholds come to Omodos by the way
in the late morning. So, later in the afternoon,
the more quiet, the more beautiful. On the other hand, I am also
I’m glad something’s going on here. Otherwise there’d be
no Soutzoukos either. They look very strange.
are made even stranger. Almond necklaces will be sold for a week.
in grape juice over and over again, then dried again,
then dunked again. And so they get
finally this special form. At least one beautiful spectator
I’ve been here before. I only eat that because of one man,
Mario Scheinert. Thank you for your mail. You said,
we need to eat this. Mm-hmm. Very cute. But it’s the custom here. Greetings to Mr. Scheinert. And thank you very much,
when you write to us. All your tips go down well
and are put into practice. Even though I’m going to be
I have to roll to the car. Now we’re going to the mountains,
to the Troodos Mountains. That’s almost 2,000 meters altitude.
Let’s see how it works. It’s nice and fresh up there,
even in summer. You can see the dark side of it.
the highest mountain in Cyprus: Olympus. But he’s
relatively barren and ugly. Much more beautiful
are the woods and paths below, in Troodos National Park. Travel time from Omodos: about 1/2 h. * Music * The Caledonia Trail is one of the
the most famous hiking trails on the island. He’s been a very good friend to me over the years.
newly signposted and secured and now always leads by a creek
up the mountain. Tight shoes are mandatory here,
the stones can be wet. But the way is great
and ends brilliantly: at the Caledonia waterfall. Depending on the tempo, you need
between 1/2 and 1 hour up to here. And it’s worth it. * Music * My goal for today: Kakopetria
in the northern Troodos Mountains. Reminds me a little of omodos,
but it’s a lot cooler here. In midsummer
Cypriots, in particular, come here. A heat escape secret tip. Kali spera.
– Kali spera. You have such churches,
one way or another, maybe I’ve seen it before,
somewhere else. But one thing here in Cyprus,
they’re only here. The “Barn Roof Churches”. They were built, so that they don’t be taken in by religious enemies.
have been discovered. Camouflaged, so to speak. Some were so well camouflaged,
that they’ve been used for centuries. and really forgot
used as barns. Not till the 19th, 20th century.
they were rediscovered. And they thought to themselves:
A barn with a fresco? Today 10
of these barn roof churches to the world cultural heritage. A characteristic
of all barn roof churches: They’re small
and they don’t have a bell tower. Decorative buildings
with small windows. You have to go in,
to be amazed. * Music * The small forest church of Asinou is over and over with frescoes
from the 12th to the 14th century. The Chapel
belonged to a monastery. The monastery is history, only the barn roof church
has survived the centuries. Maybe because her pomp
was only visible at the second glance. * Music * Our journey continues. From Kakopetria
Towards the capital. We’ll be in Nicosia in 1.25 hours. * Music * A little excited
I am. Divided city,
one of the last in the world. On the one hand, I think it’s cool, I used to like Berlin as well
I thought it was really exciting. Today I think,
it might be dangerous, too. Though everyone says not at all. Can you move around freely?
just change sides. Cool, young town. Driving in town,
is different from the mountains. Just more people on the move. But thank God
I have my GPS. * Navi *
“At the roundabout take 2nd exit Alpha, Gamma, Iota, Omikron,
Epsilon, My, Rho, Omikron, Kappa, Omikron, Pi, Iota,
Omikron, take Epsilon.” I will. Nicosia is a modern metropolis. In the greater area
almost 500,000 people. It gets very hot in summer,
up to 45�. More like spring or autumn. This is the south of town. To the tourist highlights
I’ve heard, next to the top restored churches,
the garage, which is a bit strange. with the luxury limousines of the
Cypriot political icon Makario. The Archbishop and Head of State
in the ’60s and ’70s. The archiepiscopal palace is also
pretty much the most sumptuous building in the south of the city and shows
the power of the Church. My first impression of Nicosia:
a young city. Very lively, political and
culturally, but also very specifically. Nicosia is such an exciting city. I have so many questions,
that I’m glad, 2 Locals and insiders
to have with me. Yiannos Markides,
you were born here, in Nicosia, but you live most of the time today… In Germany, near Meerbusch. You married a German woman.
and you’re both, aren’t you? I have
both nationalities. My home is Cyprus, but at home I’m in
Germany, for the family. Next to you, Alexia,
that’s your goddaughter. You were born in Germany,
Berchtesgaden, right? – That’s it. But you live here in Nicosia today.
and work as a film director. How often do you see each other? We talk on the phone almost every week. How sweet.
– Yes, it is. She’s my godchild. We have contact,
since she was a little girl. And this close contact
in the end still holds. We’re both happy,
that that’s the case. Nicosia,
what we’re seeing here now, you probably know
I’m not different, Alexia. And for you
is this very different than it used to be? Of course I do.
Especially on the border. Otherwise, before you could go anywhere.
to the occupied part. You could move freely,
everywhere. So for you, too.
a little sad story? It’s sad. Especially when I’m here
through this alley, where I used to
I went to school. And there’s the wall,
and I can’t go over there. One episode
of the 1974 Cyprus War. The Turkish Military
had invaded the island, after Greek nationalists
had been in a coup and thus the annexation of Cyprus
on Greece. The coup failed,
but the Turkish soldiers stayed. and occupy
the north of the island to this day. Hundreds of thousands of people have been killed.
from their home villages, the Turkish Cypriots
to the north, the Greek Cypriots
to the south. Since then the country and also
divided the capital Nicosia. The division
is contrary to international law, and the UN has taken Turkey
I’ve been asked to do this over and over again, to pull out their military. But Turkey
ignores all resolutions. Nevertheless, the
north and south again. In 2008, there was even a transition in the middle
in the pedestrian zone. Even if much remains unclear:
The border is open in principle. And since the border’s been open,
the downtown area is going to be very popular. They started it,
to renovate the houses. People are moving back here,
there are new restaurants and cafes. There’s plenty
Cultural events, a lot of young people live here. It’s very much alive. An old town in transition. Run-down workshops
and send vintage cars. When strolling around a lot works
near the border like an open-air museum: picturesquely rotten. Unclear ownership structure
do the rest. I guess some things can only be done in the event of a reunion
be clarified. This is the border?
– Yes, this is the border. You can look right in. There were soldiers here, too,
but not anymore. That’s crazy. So,
the border goes through a house? Yeah, they’re houses.
Door to door. House to house. That is to say, on the other side of this
Door are the Turkish soldiers? It’s neutral, as they say.
UN territory. No man’s land.
– No man’s land. Okay, how far? I don’t know how many meters. Depending,
maybe 10 m, 15 m. Depending,
like the street that runs the alley. Anybody can get in here? It was forbidden, you couldn’t,
because the soldiers were here. Why are you now
not here anymore? Because the border’s open now,
they’re not so strict anymore. You’re sure,
that’s gonna hold? Yes. I’ve eaten so much here already,
you know, Alexia? The houses,
they were beautiful. All famous families
of Nicosia and Cyprus, who had a lot of money,
lived here. And here is right… You know what it’s like to be
on vacation gets into situations, where you think about it:
What the hell was that? That’s how I feel here: This house
is impressive and creepy. I’m not going over there. But you can have
a camera there. So you can get a really nice view. We’re supposed to be
I’m gonna go back out there. (Yiannos) Enough sadness.
Enough politics. We’re supposed to have a little
Cyprus and Nicosia today. It has to be both, right?
It’s both, isn’t it? And that brings us to dinner. Not just any dinner: Mez�. The Cypriot Form
of “all you can eat”. Only much tastier.
And everyone pecks at everything. That’s rosewater, by the way. This is
the traditional welcome greeting for very important guests,
so for you. * Music * I’ve been
a little forewarned. Because now we have
very, very many plates. These Mez� are up to 30 courses. Infinite.
– Infinite? So this is just the
Pre, pre, pre, pre, starter. And then there’s the main course?
(Yiannos) Yes, at the end. I’m a little scared. But I have a backrest,
I can’t fall off the chair. * Music * This is one of my
I’ve got my absolute favorite food here. Halloumi, grilled goat cheese. It’s dreamlike. It’s great, your Halloumi.
I love it. And a little lemon, too.
I already learned that. A little meat, yeah. It’s the main course now.
Yes, I’m still sitting. In between
always a glass of Zivania. This round’s getting funnier and funnier. She asked if this is it,
if it’s finished. Not yet, not yet. This is here
is far from finished, says the friendly host. It tastes great. (Alexia) The kitchen in Cyprus
is actually also very healthy. We have a lot of vegetables,
a lot of fruit. Everything’s fresh. (Yiannos) It’s all
seasonal and fresh. But only here. The specialty of the house:
Snails. I have to swallow this. And then it’s over,
after more than 3 h. Helloumi.
– Helloumi. (laughs) That’s good. That’s good. Helloumi. Thank you. Thank you,
was really nice with you guys. The next morning. We’re going north today, into the
“Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus”. Symbolic: the Turkish flag over
of the former Sophien Cathedral. Now I’m falling for the many
military embargoes. Where: In many guard houses
nobody’s sitting at all anymore. Now it’s time,
I’ll cross the border. If one didn’t know that the
is there, you wouldn’t see it. I’m a little excited. Although everyone says yes.
You just walk over it, is open day and night. But that’s where the soldiers are.
I’ve got a passport ready to hand. And Yiannos and Alexia
didn’t want to go. Well, I’ll do it,
and you’re coming with me. With an EU passport, it’s totally
It’s no problem to go over there. But the buffer zone between the
North and south is already special. All business barricaded. There’s a
the northern part of Cyprus, and I just came from back there. So, now I’m three. Is it different? I think so. Not so modern. Nested alleyways.
It’s more oriental. North of Nicosia,
Turkish Lefkosa, significantly fewer people live
than in the south. But it’s still a long way off
the largest city in Northern Cyprus. The old town is small
and clearly arranged. I’m on my way.
to the Great Caravanserai. * Music * In the past.
I’ve spent the night with a bunch of merchants. Today it’s supposed to be some kind of medieval
I’m gonna be a mall. The B�y�k Han was already shortly after the 1st invasion
of the Ottomans in 1572. and is therefore considered to be the oldest
Turkish building in Nicosia. But it’s imperative that you
I’ll put something in the backpack. But that’s
a little too kitschy. Let’s take a look here. Oh, I’ll look for that tomorrow. But for antiquarian booksellers.
a little paradise. Thank you very much. Yeah, that’s for the backpack.
Looks cute and smells wonderful. Soap with honey and olive oil.
I’ll buy it. There are also restaurants in B�y�k Han,
and I notice, good food is in the north
as important as in the South. The ingredients are similar, too:
Goat cheese and honey. In these dumplings.
comes as a special touch a little cinnamon, too. 100 in one fell swoop. Whether the ration
for the whole evening? Now cut very cleanly, then we’ll go to the
Fryer and hot on the plate. Mm-hmm. * Music * The Selimiye Mosque,
the former Sophien Cathedral, is the fixed point
of the northern old town. An 800-year-old
Gothic church building. Shoes off, and women
must also cover the head. Then you can,
except during prayer times, to visit the mosque. * Music * The Grand Master
North Nikosias and the broken North of Nicosias
are right next to each other. It must be the same in the south.
20 years ago, before people
have rediscovered their old town. Merhaba.
– Merhaba. It’s a tragedy, isn’t it?
Such beautiful houses, so broken. There’s that sentence:
Poverty is the best protection of historical monuments. It actually is,
that in the north of Cyprus. much more old is preserved
than in the south. But at some point
it’s gonna fall down, right? I’m just going to the
Armenian neighborhood in North Nicosia. A former middle-class area lies directly
at the old city wall. And here life returns
back to town. Similar to
in the south a few years ago. * Music * The “Zahra 11” has been
opened in spring 2018. Can Yesilada is the owner. He renovated almost everything himself. The old wallpapers
from the walls, the old floor tiles
I’ve been working through all this. He wanted a mixture
from old and modern, and he’s on it.
I’ve taken some unusual paths. The massive stone slabs
e.g. come from from one of the run-down
Houses in the neighborhood. The owner didn’t want it anymore. Can’s been spending the last few years
of his life in here, even though he’s got his money
I deserve it in a completely different way. He’s a lawyer.
and has his office on the first floor. You do that to make money?
or for fun? I’ll put it this way:
The first floor fills the wallet. And on the ground floor.
I pay for my sins. It’s more of a hobby.
as a way of making money. Can take me with him
to the first floor. From the terrace you can see
directly to UN headquarters. Formerly the noblest hotel in town. But Can is something else important. We’re in the middle room. That’s the Djumba,
a big oriel. That stands for me
for eastern culture. You can go forward
looking out at the street. And here on the side, you can also
look out onto the sidewalk. But they can’t see you. And that’s for me.
Islamic culture: You can see the others,
but they can’t see you. Why not? I’m sorry. I’m sorry. Because you’re usually
the closed shutters out. Yeah, well, we got houses here.
with these djumbas, they belong
to oriental culture. But the special
is at this house: We have this Djumba, but here there is
also 2 huge balconies. You’re seen. This is for me.
Western culture. In this house
East and West merge. It’s more common around here,
than you think. Almost every house in Nicosia
tells his own story. But now I want
out of town. We’re going all the way now.
the north coast, to Bellapais. You shouldn’t be in a rented car.
from south to north. There’s no such thing as
Fully comprehensive insurance, which is insured but not
Accidents in the north. You’d have to pay for everything yourself and make sure that this car
back south. This can take weeks
and be very expensive. So we do it like everybody else,
we’ll take a cab. And I’m happy,
because Yiannos has decided He’s coming with us.
on our journey to the north coast. For him, it’s
a journey into the past, in his youth,
before the war, he was here a lot. We’re going to the medieval
St. Hilarion Fortress. To the Gothic monastery of Bellapais. And of course
to the most beautiful port of Cyprus, to Kyrenia, in Turkish Girne. The journey takes
from Nicosia 45 min. * Music * Harry Potter meets Game of Thrones. This is how it works on a mountain top
enthroned fortress St. Hilarion on visitors. To get to the top,
you have to be pretty good on foot. But it’s worth the effort. * Music * On the slopes
of the Pentad�ktylos Mountains, but a few kilometres
further east, is the quiet mountain village of Bellapais. The village itself does not belong to
to the Tourist Compulsory Programme. The world-famous monastery ruin
but definitely. Bellapais was
the medieval bridgehead of the Catholics to Jerusalem. An attraction to this day
for people from all over the world. My expert for the North
is Sabri Abit, and the monastery ruin
is one of his favorite places. No wonder, he’s been leading
a hotel right next to the abbey. Sabri speaks very good German. He was a British soldier.
stationed in Osnabr�ck for a long time. Most tourists here
but they’re from Turkey. The difficult
international legal status of the North is a curse and a blessing. When the abbey is visited by package tourists.
would be overrun, would be here
not so romantic for a long time. On the other side: Bellapais
deserved more visitors. The Lords of Bellapais
were Premonstratensian monks, that have been here for centuries.
lived their faith and their power. But as time went by.
Pride and greed for Bellapais. Rome became attentive to the
very lavish lifestyle of the monks and sent inspectors. Then they reported, that the monks
in the middle of the night. With banquets
and dinner parties and stuff. The main monk, for example.
had golden spores. On the shoes.
– Yes, it is. A second inspector has gone to the Vatican
reported 25 years later, that some monks
they’ve taken women. And of course for the family
built a small house, outside the abbey. This of course
our village was born. (laughs) The abbey was dissolved. It has been reported that some
Monks stayed then. My great-grandfather was one of them.
– You do? No. There aren’t many places, where legends and history
so intertwined. Perhaps Sabri’s great-grandfather
actually the Abbot of Bellapais. Or he was captain.
on one of the fishing boats, who docked in Kyrenia in the evening, the most beautiful seaport
of the whole island. He speaks German.
– Hello, nice to meet you. * Music * Backgammon, by the way.
the game of all Cypriots, north and south. For more than 2,000 years
people live in this bay. Today Kyrenia counts
Population 30,000. The tourist flows are
even here on the harbour promenade not so big,
as one would expect, much like
at Bellapais Monastery. Since the early Middle Ages. the port will be overrun by a giant
Byzantine fortress. It was never taken. The Venetians handed them over to the
Ottomans without a fight in the conquest. What’s Northern Cyprus got?
what Southern Cyprus doesn’t have? The fact that Northern Cyprus has been boycotted.
and has no big tourism. Many things
have remained original. Also with the landscape, but also the architecture
and history. I know exactly,
that most of the attractions in Cyprus, historically speaking,
are in the north. And the best beaches. I don’t want to be here.
on a competition between north and south. But undisputedly
are many beaches in the north beautifully
and often almost deserted. There’s hardly any mass tourism. And if you’re lucky, you’ll find affordable
Accommodation directly by the sea. But if you’re really looking for solitude,
should leave the beaches and the hinterland
in the northeast. Great landscape cinema. It’s ice age in Kyrenia,
and the ice is melting fast. Yiannos from the South
during our shooting. Sabri from the north. The two of them
I’m very interested in each other, talk a lot,
even if the camera isn’t running. Thank you, Sabri. And how do we get along now? the Southern Cypriot
with the Northern Cypriot? I don’t have any problems. I get the impression
You guys are getting along so well. All right, this is my relative.
Who knows, it’s a small island. We’ve been together for centuries,
in the end. Since 1560, when the Ottomans
here in Cyprus came and conquered Cyprus. And we lived
mostly together, in villages, in towns, peacefully. They have
at our celebrations. We have
at their Bayram party. You always have gifts, secret ones,
to the others. Unfortunately, politics
this problem in Cyprus. Politics, yes. Not by local politicians,
from abroad. You can now
always meet for ice cream. We’ve already arranged to meet. And what do you do?
– We’re having a barbecue. He’s coming to you?
– He’s coming to Pafos. You must eat very, very much there. Oh, he knows that. It’s expected. They don’t eat less,
who eat just like we do. Great, great, great. And it tastes good. I promised him, too, when my wife is here,
we’ll visit him, too. That’s a promise. This is the result
of getting to know each other today. Beautiful makes friends.
– We’re thinking of you. Yeah, toast to me.
– Yes, of course. Well, I’m glad. * Music * For me, it’s goodbye.
of Yiannos and Sabri. I’m driving now.
in the southeast of Cyprus. To the tourist stronghold of the island. 1,5 h by car it is
from Nicosia to Agia Napa. And a little further
to Cape Greco. Cyprus has a lot to offer. Great mountains, ancient culture. Very nice people,
who insist, that you have to do a lot
of their very tasty food. But just do something like that. * Music * Beautiful,
as the backpack says. But the idyll
is a little deceptive. They exist,
the lonely, idyllic bays. But Agia Napa is also the center
of bathing tourism in Cyprus. And that means:
You’re not alone everywhere. Also many German beach holidaymakers
like to come here. Cyprus is safer and freer
than Turkey, in addition in the summer clearly more favorably
than the Canary Islands and Mallorca. And the bathing season ranges from April
until well into October. The good news: The worst hotel sins
there’s no such thing here. And near the beach.
is even made only in white. The slightly worse news: It is being built on very diligently. So better with the hotel booking because of Baul�rms in the neighbourhood
I’d like to ask you a question. Or out of the resort. Agia Napa, this is the place,
where you can find mass tourism. But if he looks like that,
you can live with that, can’t you? 5 min by car from the town centre
you have complete peace of mind. * Music * Enough looking. Now I’m going to make myself
on the hike to the southeasternmost point of Cyprus: Cape Greco.
Classic sunset destination. So, three quarters of an hour uphill,
but not too steep either. There are hikes,
you don’t want to do them alone. But that’s one,
you can do it on your own. Nice view, nice to go. And the 100 m
I can do it now. It’s best to be in a place like this,
you just shut up. * Music * After the sunset
is before nightlife. What you get in Agia Napa
in all variations, but it goes today
I’m afraid it’s a little late. The square here at the old monastery is at midnight.
at least it’s packed. * Music * But I’ve got
to do anything about it. You know that, don’t you? You buy something on vacation,
you unpack it at home. and I don’t know,
where to put it. This is going in the backpack. She’ll be too ugly after all.
I already have a good heart. Maybe something like that.
Carnival’s always the same. Why not in Cyprus?
buy an African mask? You can,
are also reduced, great. Or something Chinese. * Music * Others carry owls to Athens, we can
carry owls away from Cyprus. Yeah, that’s what it is. But now we’re gonna throw a
a quick look at pubs and bars. * Music * That’s considered the ball man of Cyprus. But I’ve been all over the world in no holiday resort
I saw a Ferris wheel. Here is the whole year fair
in Agia Napa. * Music * On my last day in Cyprus.
we’re heading west. First near Larnaka.
There’s a very special lake. And then it goes on
to the Miami of Cyprus, to Limassol. Why should one choose a lake
right by the sea? At the salt lake of Larnaka the
especially the view over the lake. The Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque
couldn’t be more beautiful. And it’s considered the most important
Prayer house of the Muslims in Cyprus. The surprise next door:
Pomegranates. The trees in Cyprus will be all possible and impossible
attributed to abilities. The flowers are a sign
beauty and fertility. And the fruit,
I’ll say something later. And now… …off to Limassol. Her nickname, “the Miami of Cyprus.” the city on the south coast
for two reasons. Nowhere to be found
more modern and expensive skyscrapers. And for the boys,
Beautiful, rich and creative there’s no other place
on the island. In Limassol meet
Future and past. And they get along pretty well. The Cultural Manager Georgia Doetzer
has seen a lot of things in the world, but Limassol
is her favorite city and much more Cyprus metropolis
than the capital, Nicosia. How is it that Limassol Nicosia has so outstripped the rank
about the metropolis? One reason was certain
the presence of many foreigners here in Limassol. The many companies,
a lot of shipping, a lot of money companies. That’s what Limassol did.
a big push. Who came here? First the Germans came. A lot of
Shipping companies. There was a time,
where several companies here. That’s the consequence,
that a lot of people found work here. That’s why a lot of young people came to see me.
to Limassol after her studies. That pushed Limassol right. * Music * Even though the
now sounds very German, but Limassol is, like.
the whole island, very tidy. And yet, the Old Town
I’ll keep her charm. Georgia also wants me to have
the other side of town. The new one, the one,
where the money is invested, from all over the world
to Cyprus, on the tax savings accounts,
into offshore projects. The banking crisis has spread from
Limassol, anyway, well recovered. The biggest construction project
of the last years: the Marina. A private harbour with houses
and apartments for the super-rich. Cyprus has always been a place, where many from the outside
I was interested in. The British used to be here, Russians are coming here today,
Chinese, Israelis. Of course I do. Cyprus has always been a place,
who liked to take people in. I think it’s
a very hospitable place. He welcomes his visitors
very gladly and very generously. Maybe I should have
as the only objection, that you don’t have to
should lose his own identity. At this welcoming
of all visitors. The downside of big money
from abroad: You often don’t remember,
who owns this place. And what he wants to do with it. Georgia needs to go to the theater now, but I still have time.
for a little stroll. * Music * The Backpack
It’s pretty heavy. Actually, I should be walking like this. But I’m still missing
a teeny bit of something. I’ve got an idea, too. There’s a lot of
a special lucky charm, which I like very much
as a lucky charm. No, I’m not looking for that. Yeah, the shape is right, but I’m looking for this.
in three dimensions. There it is, a clay pomegranate. This is the typical lucky charm
here in Cyprus. Is that true, he brings luck? That’s it. It’s a sign of happiness,
for fertility and wealth. Ah, so special
for wedding couples? Yes, for the wedding,
but also for everyone. It always helps. You’ll get it, too.
if you’re already married. You can always use a new life. In front of the Rialto Theatre
the company starts. The International Film Festival attracts every year
to a wider audience. Georgia Doetzer
is also there, of course. Welcome guests, last organizational questions
for the evening. Georgia is
Heart and soul of the theatre. The work for art is for them
I’ve got a job for the country, too. Because hardly anyone
connects Cyprus with art. And honestly.
many of the foreign guests nothing at all about Cyprus. I believe that Cyprus and the Cypriots
are relatively unknown. Most people even believe
that Cyprus was Greek. Most people,
who come to Cyprus for the first time, are in for a surprise. Cyprus is something quite different. I’ve seen a lot of it,
that visitors or even friends, Cyprus
the first time, say: Man, we never expected this,
that Cyprus is like that. It’s an interesting discovery,
Cyprus. And we’re going to bring
backpack full of picks to take you home. With Cypriot white wine. A pomegranate for luck. For the body
the honey soap from Nicosia. From Andreas olives and oil. The Cypriot panacea
Zivania. And for the view through
in Agia Napa the owl. And a beautiful
colorful coffee pot. * Music * That was really more of everything now. It was nicer, it was more exciting,
it was sadder, too. And it was tastier,
than I imagined. This island is at least
worth a trip. Yassas from Cyprus
and see you next time. * Music * Copyright WDR 2018

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