Amsterdam: bunt, cool, tolerant | WDR Reisen

Amsterdam: bunt, cool, tolerant | WDR Reisen


Subtitles: WDR mediagroup digital
GmbH on behalf of the WDR City of 165 canals. town
of the 8,863 historic buildings. until the battery is exhausted. * Music * The world capital of freedom. I’m looking, like the legendary coffeeshops
work, and visit the red light district. The Matjes
I let others swallow. I promise you,
You’ll be amazed at Amsterdam. * Music * After about 3 hours train journey from Cologne I reach
the central station of Amsterdam. I’m not really there yet,
and there’s a surprise. In the station concourse
there’s a wing. And the pianist looks like
like a normal traveller. * Music * Here can anyone who can, sit down
and play the piano for everyone. That’s a great idea. Excuse me, how do you say
“welcome in Amsterdam” on Dutch? In Dutch? Welkom in Amsterdam. Welkom in Amsterdam?
– That’s right. Welkom in Amsterdam. Seen from the air
the unique floor plan the Dutch capital
most clearly. Like onion peels
the canals lie down around the medieval centre. 800,000 people from 180 nations
live in the canal metropolis. In Amsterdam
there are 2,500 houseboats, and I want to stay on one. * Music * Hello.
– You’re Andrea. Hans?
– Exactly. A warm welcome. Thank you. Thank you.
– Glad you could make it. Did you find it easy?
– Yes, great. That’s the houseboat, I’ll show you.
– I am so curious. This is the bedroom.
– What a fantastic view. That’s right, right on the water,
we built it ourselves, that was very different. The big windows
Did you put it in? – Exactly. Then I’ll show you the rest. Here we come
I’ll stop by the bathroom. Very briefly,
Bathtub turned crosswise. Even a bathtub.
– Yes. This is the living room. Are these real family heirlooms?
– Yes, they are. It’s from my family,
and the table, and the mirror. Or else I’ll have
nothing taken by the family. Very cozy here. Hans tells me,
how he got to the houseboat. He’s with an Austrian woman.
married. to trade mountains for water,
was for her only on one condition. She said I wanted to go to Amsterdam, but only
if we buy a houseboat. That was wild at the time,
live like gypsies. That was freaky, right?
– Yes. Now everything is comfortable,
Central heating. They didn’t have anything back then. We have
cold feet and a hot head, because the difference
between here and here was 3 degrees This is a self-catering boat, right?
– That’s right. If you go shopping
and does something. Despite everything
I did some shopping for you, that is, a welcome breakfast. I don’t deliver,
but you can use so much, as you like.
– Perfect. Here’s the second room. Even with a sliding door?
– Exactly. Look.
– It’s getting nicer and nicer. Thank you. I’ll take care of it. We also like it very much. If we lived here,
we ate here a lot. Breakfast can be had here. You could say that it’s
the Amsterdam way of life? It’s part of that attitude to life. Main part of Amsterdam
for me, Easy-Going and would be relaxed. The atmosphere, no rushing,
take life as it comes. * Music * I do it like the Amsterdammers do.
and I’m riding my bike. Amsterdam’s centre doesn’t work at all like the center
of an almost-million city. It’s manageable,
everything is close together. The Amsterdam
spend their free time manifest
I love to be on the water. That must be now,
a ride through the canal belt. I’m meeting Emma. She knows all about the city,
built on the water. Like a spider’s web
of the canal belt through the city. Heren-, Keizers- and Prinsengracht
are the most magnificent, interconnected
through many small side channels. Hello.
– Hello. Hello. I’m Andrea.
– Marius. You’re Emma?
– Hello. Nice to meet you. This is
a very special boat, isn’t it? “Deze boot is gemaakt
van Amsterdams GrachtenPlastic”. Did I say that right?
– Yes, about that. How do you say it? “Deze boot is gemaakt
van Amsterdams GrachtenPlastic”. What’s so special about it? This boat
is made out of plastic waste. Our “PlasticWhale” campaign.
we fish with the help of of many thousands of people
the plastic waste from the canals. We recycle it
to beautiful designer boats. * Music * Emma tells me that
the UNESCO the canal belt 2010 to an urban development and
architectural synthesis of the arts has explained Unique worldwide,
an incredibly beautiful doll’s house. * Music * Tell me something.
about the history of the canals. It’s
a remarkable story. Because of the exposed location.
Amsterdam between sea and river flourished at the end of the 16th century.
the trade flourished. The economy flourished, and there came many merchants
and immigrants to the city. They came from all over Europe.
and had to live somewhere. At that time, the old
City literally at the seams. The impressive creation of the
history of the canal belt is told in the canal museum. Mayors planned back then,
Treasurer, Engineers and Architects
on the drawing board, how the urban expansion
should look like. It took
Square and walls for defense. And the city was to be beautiful. After all, the urban planners
found the optimal solution. 4 channels were placed in a semicircle
around the old town centre. In the Golden Age Amsterdam was
richest city in the world. Elegant gabled houses were built. Nothing was to the wealthy
Merchants too expensive. While the rest of Europe
the Wars of Faith raged, ruled Amsterdam
a liberal climate. merchants, scientists
and artists came from everywhere. The population exploded. On the canal belt
was diligently built. For the craftsmen of that time.
an unimaginable challenge. How did they build on the water? That was more than complicated. The swampy ground
was not suitable, to build houses on. There had to be very long stakes.
into the ground. They were 11 to 12 meters long. First on these stakes.
the houses could be built. Everything here is on stakes? Right, on thousands of stakes. You could say,
Amsterdam is built on a forest. * Music * I notice, that some canal houses
are extremely crooked. This isn’t a coincidence, is it? The houses
belonged to rich merchants. The goods came from all over the world. and had to
be stored somewhere. They’ve been crossed the canals
to the houses. Do you see
those gallows up at the houses? It was
a pulley block, with the
they could pull the goods up. When you see a house,
which is tilted forward, that’s what it’s all about, so that when the goods are pulled up.
didn’t hit the facade. Okay. (laughs) The Amsterdam
were already in the 17th century. fairly
enterprising and pragmatic. The most important thing was the trade, and the more open you were,
the better business was. That’s funny. That’s funny. Hello. It has
something about an open-air museum. But somehow not, because here.
the locals are still alive. * Music * Amsterdam
is the city of bicycles. They’re driving everywhere in a crazy
Tempo, ringing hardly ever and they definitely never do brake. You only have one chance, you thread your way in
and drifts along. This is going surprisingly well,
I haven’t seen an accident. I am in the negen of Straatjes,
the Nine Streets, between Herengracht and Prinsengracht. Above historical facades, below
the shopping paradise of the city. Typical Amsterdam:
the mix of old and modern. 9 small streets for strolling. * Music * The assortment in the shops
is selected and individual. Here it is the best vintage-, design- and
I’ll give you some specialty stores in town. * Music * Lots of viewer tips, perchance
do you recognize yours? Apparently, we’re lying
with Amsterdam just in time. We picked the best ones, that I
I could use for my tour. Thank you very much, sir. The food offer in Amsterdam
is a giant grab bag. It starts with the fact that
here the typical fastfood of the country from the vending machine. “Eten uit de muur” is what that means,
“Food from the wall.” Food from the wall, yeah.
Do you speak German? – Yes. This is gonna
always freshly added. That’s the famous Frikandel,
the Dutch Landclops, that no one knows for sure,
what’s in it. But it’s the national snack.
Hollands. That’s how he looks from the inside. This is boring.
against the food in Amsterdam. Herring and cheese
you know from Holland. But Amsterdam’s food is just as
as diverse as its population. Along with the Hungry Birds,
the hungry birds, so is
a culinary city tour, we explore
the city’s street food culture. Amsterdam is one of the
most multicultural cities in the world. There are dishes
from all over the world, and they’re all very authentic. The first station is the Indonesian
speciality shop from the Hui family. At every stop
there’s a special story. Why are we here? Indonesia was a long time
a Dutch colony. After the Second World War.
Indonesia became independent. Many Indonesians came to Holland,
to start a new life here. The Hui family found at the time that their countrymen have been eating
from back home. With a suitcase
full of Indonesian spices and goods they ran from house to house. This was so well received that
she opened this store in 1961. Stories are even more beautiful,
if you can taste them. Therefore
I tried everything on the food tour. That’s what we call bacon pie. We also call it layer cake,
Indonesian layer cake, everybody here knows him. With us in America
that’s 7-shift cake. Does it taste the same?
– No, it’s very different. Thank you. Dead ziens. love
is known to go through the stomach. So is the love of a city. This is
the philosophy of this food tour. De Pijp is
a former working-class neighborhood. Now it’s
as a residential area. There are great restaurants,
Cafés and bars. It’s a good place to go out at night. If you want
want to go out for a drink and not in the touristic
I want to stay in the neighborhood, I recommend to use the center
to leave a little. De Pijp
lies south of the canal belt, 1/4 h walk from the centre. The main attraction
this is the Albert Cuyp market, that takes place every day. Here is the Stroopwafels,
a sticky sweet wafer specialty. Here we go. We would be
never thought of it, to go to De Pijp
or try all the food. Even on vegetarians.
they’ll be considerate. * Music * Then comes the sample
for the hard-boiled: Matjes. For the Brazilians
very getting used to. Zosia shows,
how to eat it properly in Holland. Perfect picture moment. I think it’s good to have a culture
about their food. Every time we travel, we make
first and foremost, a food tour. You meet other people. That opens
access to a culture. That’s a different experience,
than sitting in a restaurant. In her backyard
directly behind the Albert-Cuyp-market Mug from Java welcomes the guests. Of course there is also a
personal story for dinner. We eat
this soup for special occasions, for birthdays or weddings. We used to have
a pretty old cook at home. I was always there,
when she was preparing the food. She said to me: Child, see?
how I cook the soup? That’s life. It’s like a big pot. Everyone gives his own ingredients
in his very own way. That’s what you have to learn. I should taste it, that she would take the soup with much love
I had cooked for me. That’s what I’m hoping,
that you can taste, that I’m going to have
with a lot of attention and love I made for you. Bon appetit. The food tour lasts a total of 4 hours. At some point.
the conversations are about not just about food anymore. people
from Brazil, America and Japan have so much to tell each other. Last stop
is a typical cheese shop. Actually, nothing fits anymore,
and the participants are full to the brim. A great experience,
the tour with the Hungy Birds. Really lekker. And really practical
is this cheese slicer, our next backpack present
for you. * Music * My first day in Amsterdam
is coming to an end. He was a hit. I’ve seen so much,
so much difference. I like this town already. When it gets dark, maybe she’s still a little bit
more romantic than during the day. * Music * The next morning
I’ll be out in the old town, in the heart of Amsterdam. This is the red light district. That all hell breaks loose at night,
you can’t tell. That’s not why I’m here. I’m looking for
for a particular house. Many spectators
gave us this tip, and that must mean something. * Bells ringing * Do you like
anything on this house? Isn’t it? Take another good look. Don’t you notice anything? It looks like
how many houses look like here. But here it comes. * Music * Our dear Lord
in the attic. This is, I think, really
the right name for this place. I’m curious. How did this church come into being? We have to go back for a while,
to the 17th century Amsterdam really exploded,
there were an awful lot of people, who came
to Amsterdam for trade. Then there was a German,
Jan Hartmann from Coesfeld. Most likely.
because of the Thirty Years’ War. back in Germany. In Münster, Coesfeld, that’s where he came from. That was just war. He thought I have to survive,
what do I have to do? I’m going to Amsterdam. Here he is
arrived about 1630. He started out as a journeyman baker. and has
worked his way up as a merchant. There was something else, he was Catholic
to a Protestant city. So he built, Thijs tells me, a Catholic Church
in the attic of his apartment building. I’m amazed at how big this is.
– Mhm. Beautiful, isn’t it?
– Yes, beautiful. In this magnificent attic.
so Amsterdam’s Catholics prayed, unobserved
from the Calvinist outside world. But I still quite understand
not how that worked. How hidden was it really? When you see this organ,
It’s loud. There were a lot of people in here, too. Here you can
about 150 people in it. Everybody knew that,
there was also a choir. You can sing, too. You heard it on the street?
– Absolutely. How was it possible
that something like this could happen? It was forbidden. Officially, it was forbidden, but unofficially
everything was almost allowed. You have freedom of conscience. Whether you’re Catholic or Jewish.
or Lutheran, that was okay. But you had to
just don’t practice it outside. They wouldn’t let it get outside.
– That’s right. There it is again, pragmatism, who played such a big role in Amsterdam
seems to be playing. As long as the Catholics,
who were often rich merchants, paid their taxes on time,
everything was fine. And the silent exercise
of their faith, nothing stood in the way. * Music * You can enter this museum with
the Amsterdam Card cheaper and in over 40 other museums
in the city. You can also use the public
Use public transport free of charge, You can
the canalside boats. And in many restaurants.
there are also perks. Amsterdam Card comes for you
so nice red in the red backpack. * Music * Sitting with the first rays of sunshine
the Amsterdammers immediately outside. * Music * At every third corner. the Amsterdam-typical
cloud of odour. I did it so
I’ve never seen him before. So off to a coffee shop. * Music * Hello. Thank you. Hello.
– Hi. Hi. This is my first time.
at a coffee shop. I’m curious. What exactly are you selling? We sell various
Cannabis products. Hashish and finished joints. Or this,
a very special plant. It’s called Blue Sugar Punch. Can I touch it? Not really, but okay. A beautiful, sweet scent. That’s right, a little sweet. What’s the difference
between cannabis and marijuana? Marijuana is cannabis. But there’s also hashish. Here, this is White Choco Block,
a special variety of hashish. That’s cannabis too?
– No, it’s hashish. Made of what? – Cannabis,
but in a different way. Cannabis is the generic term?
– Everything is cannabis. And everything is marijuana?
– It’s just the plant. Hashish is the pressed form. I see, this is pressed. And that tastes different? Yes, and it works differently. Stronger? It’s stimulating.
Hashish you feel more in your head. You feel the blossoms more in your body. For every mood
there is the appropriate herb. This coffee shop is special. It looks like
like in a pharmacy. What kind of people come here? Amsterdam is a colourful city.
197 nationalities live here. From the lawyer
about the elderly lady up to students
everybody comes here. It’s legal in Holland,
5 g hashish or marijuana for personal use
to carry with him. Cigarettes and alcohol
are forbidden in the coffee shops. For some years now
drug policy is more restrictive. Many of the former
78 coffee shops in the centre have already been closed,
more are to follow. Do you think that Amsterdam
is a special city? Yeah, it’s always been
a very liberal city. For almost 40 years
there’s coffee shops here. It’s inside people,
to be open and free. Of course you need
Rules and laws. But freedom is also important. And here’s what you got. The Amsterdamers are
a really relaxed crowd. You can also see that in Vondelpark. This is the most popular park
in the city. The craziest thing I’ve ever seen
I’ve heard for a long time, that there’s sex allowed in the evenings and at night. The hippies used to celebrate
exuberant celebrations in Vondelpark. Today he is
the resort for everyone. I’m back at the canal belt. Below the Westerkerk
is formed in the Prinzengracht the longest queue every day
of the city. In the back of this house.
Anne Frank was hiding with her family for 2 years
from the German occupiers. Until in August 1944.
but he was still betrayed. The moving story
of Anne Frank and her diary. is known all over the world. That’s why the rush
in front of the museum. People have to wait up to 2 hours. This is what it looks like every day.
in front of the Anne Frank Museum. As a consolation, there’s free Wi-Fi,
for all who wait. The only chance,
to get around it, is,
to buy a ticket online beforehand. This is not only true
for the Anne Frank Museum in the Prinzengracht 263, but
also for all other big museums. I’m asking, how the Amsterdamers do it
with these crowds of tourists. That a guy like that
a relaxed attitude to life here. Everybody’s relaxed here.
There is a good atmosphere everywhere. On the Noordermarkt around the corner
we asked, what people
in their town like that. I like Amsterdam because
the atmosphere is so relaxed. It’s diverse,
exciting, exotic. The people
are very open and friendly. In Dutch
it’s called gezellig, cozy. Everywhere there are
small cafés with terraces. That’s my Amsterdam.
This is my city. In the Noordermarkt, the main focus is on
the locals go shopping. This farmer’s market
has existed for 20 years. There’s all sorts of
culinary delights. Almost everything is organic
and from the region. It is considered as the most beautiful organic market
of the whole Netherlands. An institution directly on the market
is the Café de Winkel. Everybody’s doing the same thing here,
which is eat Appeltaart. A stand on the Noorder Market
is particularly striking. It’s tulip season, and these bouquets
look very different than they do here. The Dutch
have it in them somehow. Where do I get the tulips?
I grow them myself. I have a large field where people
pick their own tulips. That’s where I harvest my own flowers. 12 euros. Thank you. Buying is fun,
but picking it yourself is much better. The Amsterdam ones and the tulips.
This is a real love story. In the Golden Age, the
People so crazy about tulips, that the onions
were traded on the stock exchange. Partially to value
of a canal house. Until it was 1637.
to the first global stock market crash. Tulip mania
this phenomenon was called. Before I really
into the tulip frenzy, there is another gift
for the backpack. I’ll say this spring.
is the best season of the year for an Amsterdam trip. Everywhere in the city you can find
between the end of March and the beginning of May the greatest tulip compositions. Now I want to know,
where the tulips come from. Only 40 km west of Amsterdam and a few kilometres
away from the North Sea is one of the largest flower-
onion growing areas of Holland. Take a look at this. * Music * What a dream. I’m getting dizzy here.
Unbelievable. I’m sure that’s the man who’s been
I’ve heard. You’d have to marry him. Hello. Are you the owner
of this field? – Yes. You’re married, aren’t you?
– No. Excuse me. Excuse me. Excuse me.
I am so impressed. What are you doing here right now? I’ll see if there’s any strangers here.
I’ve seen them sneak up on you. The lady of this tulip
is “Madame le Favor”. Here I see a strange sort. Right, that’s another one. That’s a different kind.
I think it’s yellow. These tulips are so beautiful.
Do you sell them? No, the flowers
don’t interest us. In two or three days, we’ll be here.
with a machine. Two hours later, the field is mown. The flowers are destroyed.
Just like here. Off. Like this.
– Like this? How awful? Why? Why? All the power of the sun and the
Let the water go into the onion. So that in the coming year. onions as large as possible
can harvest. The flower is not important at all? It doesn’t matter.
– I only see the flowers. Next year
we sell the onions, that turn into beautiful flowers. * Music * Along the tulip fields
there are signposted cycle paths. I’m visiting the woman with the tulips.
from the market in Amsterdam. * Music: Mieke Telkamp
“Tulips from Amsterdam” * # When spring comes, it’s
I’ll send you tulips from Amsterdam. When spring comes, pick it
I’ll give you tulips from Amsterdam. When I come back.
I bring you tulips from Amsterdam. A thousand red, a thousand yellow,
all of them wish the same for you. What my mouth can’t say,
say tulips from Amsterdam. # What are you looking at now? Sorry?
– How do you start? I’ll start with the short tulips. Then a long one comes along,
always alternating. I’m turning the bouquet.
I leave the length as it is. Then there’s a savage at the end,
romantic bouquet. I’ll show you. Now you cut them,
before they get in the vase? Yeah, a little bit. And so much water. Not too much?
– Not too much. These maybe. And in the beginning the tulips
drink a lot. You shouldn’t be
than put so much water in it. Then they don’t grow anymore? Each variety grows differently. Some tulips grow wild. Others stay so high. Others don’t grow at all. These are long.
– Yes, they are long. See what I mean? Important
are the different lengths. Why are you tying your bouquets
just like that? – Because I love it so much. For me
it just goes with the tulips. By their very nature.
a certain length. Why should I cut something off? I’ll leave it like this. “Mooi” is beautiful?
– Yes. Tulips? And beautiful? Wonderful? Heel mooi.
– Heel mooi. Heel mooi tulips.
– Heel mooi tulips. What means thank you?
– Thanks je wel. Thanks ever.
– Asjeblieft. And so the typical
Dutch tulip vases. A gift for you. * Music * The tulips grow
in this neighborhood so good about it, because the coast is so near
and the soil with fine sand and mussels. That’s what tulips like. And while I’m here,
I say hello to the sea. In Noordwijkerhout. * Music * The Amsterdam
have it really good. A good 1/2 h from the stand
removes tulip seas, as far as you can see. And now beach too
and the real sea. That’s how the day can end. * Music * Oh, yeah. Oh, yeah. There was something else.
Amsterdam and art. Because the city
makes so many things different, also sees a museum visit
different. To bring a breath of fresh air
to let me stop for a drink, the Van Gogh Museum transforms itself on Friday evenings
in a cool location. Van Gogh meets Pop. It’s great how easy it is for the people of Amsterdam to get out of here.
traditional and young culture with each other. With this program we want to
bridge between of contemporary culture, which are
my generation is interesting, and Van Gogh,
his work and his time. So we invite local artists,
Musicians, people who give workshops, and other creative people,
to come here and see Van Gogh’s work. in a contemporary evening
to set the scene. The Van Gogh Museum
is the world’s largest collection of of the post-Impressionist. 200 paintings, 550 drawings
and even more letters show the Development of Van Gogh into a
of the greatest artists of all time. The one who, in his lifetime.
sold a single painting. In front of the sunflowers
there are seldom so few visitors. Still the Friday Night is
an insider’s tip. The museum is then
much emptier than during the day. We are open 7 days a week. On 6,5 days is the museum visit,
as you know him. But once a week.
we have a different environment. We’re talking very clear.
the younger visitors. That’s a good thing. Especially the younger ones
often work a lot, have little time, but still want
do something. So you can come back here after work.
have a drink, relax and be in the museum at the same time. This man is not quite
insignificant for Amsterdam, especially when night falls. Mirik Milan is
the night mayor of the city. Regularly he is
in the bars and clubs, speaks with the operators and
find out where there’s trouble. Amsterdam’s nightlife has long been
notorious. 10 years ago
there were therefore many bans, which is in line with the otherwise liberal Amsterdam
didn’t fit at all. That was the hour of birth
of the mayor of the night. The Night Mayor is the speaker of nightlife
in dialogue with the city. I am a direct advisor
of the mayor. I am his eyes and ears
at night. The man with the unusual job
I want to get to know. Mirik has been in office since 2012, elected
of the city’s party scene. Hello Mirik. I’m Andrea.
– Good to see you. Why do we meet
here at the Volkshotel? The Volkshotel
is a very dynamic place. It’s a hotel, but it’s got
also the cocktail bar Doka, open 24 hours a day
and the CANVAS Club. Mirik suggests the 7th floor,
to go to CANVAS. Until 22 o’clock
this is a regular restaurant. Then the tables are cleared away,
and the DJs will take over. Mirik tells me,
exactly what he’s doing. We make sure that the clubs
open longer. We’re working on it, that there is less violence
and that less is drunk. Is there a curfew? Yeah, that’s maybe
the difference to Berlin. In Amsterdam the clubs are closing
at 4, at the latest 5. This leads to a situation in which
in the main squares people at the same time
accumulate, which causes noise and the people,
that live there. As night mayor,
to ensure a good balance. We have an experimental project
with 10 clubs, who have 24-hour licenses. We expect it to do us good, that not all of them at the same time
get out of the clubs. If we’re going to
over several hours, there is less noise and less action
on the streets and thus
hopefully less violence. You have the nightlife but also
as an economic factor. Alone with the House- and
Technoscene, Mirik tells me, 600 million Euro
per year. The bill is clear. A lively nightlife
revives a city culturally and of course also economical. I would like
to the other side of Amsterdam. 10 min by ferry, and the city
shows a completely different face. This has nothing left.
to do with canal romance. My destination is Amsterdam-Noord,
an industrial area in upheaval. Ferries across the river Ij
drive directly behind the train station heading for the NDSM shipyard. This ferry runs all day long.
for free 24 hours a day. Just on it, over there and look. * Music * This is the former site of the Dutch Dock
and shipbuilding company. Until the ’80s.
Cargo ships and tankers built. Then the shipyard went broke,
and artists came. I’d like to take the grounds
of Pieter. He’s got a little theater here. and is one of the pioneers
at the former shipyard. A sympathetic, weird guy,
who’s gonna make fun of me. For the elephants.
– Then I have to go up. Very charming.
– You can look there. I got the best look. Pieter told me, that in the art city 150 creative people
their studios and workshops. How different are they?
– Quite different. Like, they make gadgets. They make ties from wood, Watches. Wood? Flies made of wood. You don’t have to wash them.
– No. And they make Internet,
Websites, web designers. Anything crazy around here? There’s a studio there,
who make for women so the… Heels?
– The heels. From the shoe heels?
– But only that, not the shoes. They are then…
– For Italian fashion. They’re all hot. We’ll walk around.
– Okay. How much space does everyone get here? That’s the black one here,
the metal one, that’s what you get. You have to build this yourself. There’s no walls in there?
– Nothing at all. They made from wood. Here, they’ve got the
I’ve done it differently. – Glass. Do you know everybody here?
– Yes. All of them?
– No, it changes sometimes. I’ve been here 14 years. Everybody knows you?
– That changes, too. Then when you’re
too much money here, you gotta get out of here, too. That’s for artists,
who start, who experiment, trying new things. * Music * Okay, like this. This is the theater?
– This is the theatre. Very small stage.
– This is the stage? Are you standing there? 4 at 3 m, for cabaret only. Do something for me,
a little art. – I hate it. I’m sorry. I’m sorry,
but I wish. I hate that.
– He hates me. Whether I’m going to can do for you… This. It’s for you. What happens now?
– You asked. Yes, but…
– Go stand there. My face.
– A little further. Put the cigar in your mouth,
and then forward. That’s it. A little further. I’m scared. I’m scared.
– I’m scared, too. (squeals) (squeals) (laughs) In the neighbouring hall
finds once to 2 times a month an oversized
big flea market. The organizers advertise with it,
to be the biggest in Europe. That alone makes a visit worthwhile,
to get to know the yard grounds. * Music * I can recommend,
to come here by bike. As wide as the area is. Now I’m meeting the woman,
who’s the head of the creative scene. She represents the interests
the artist and negotiates
with city and company. This is the restaurant. Anne Marie tells me,
that the Pllek from old ship containers
is assembled. Original and simple. Also in architecture
one refers to the story the once third largest shipyard
of the world. My parents, they’re all from here.
– Beautiful. Okay. (laughs)
– It’s a nice place. And a good picture like that.
– Perfect. In the history
there were 4,000 people, who had worked here
to the shipyard. There was nothing 20 years ago. Then the artists
and the small businesses. Now we want to tell this story
from a community of workers we’d like to have,
but workers of the future. I learn that investors
Show interest in the area. And renowned international
companies have their headquarters here. The NDSM shipyard is on. To keep their rough charm
to receive it anyway, Anne Marie has to keep between
to moderate the interests. How does it work?
It looks so easy. It’s also a dialogue,
a continuous conversation with the big enterprises
and the artists and the city developers. We’re all bringing everyone together
to engage in dialogue about the future. Diplomacy,
but also to promote the vision. All the time telling,
we do it differently, then the other rooms
in this town. * Music * In this former ship’s crane.
above me is a very expensive hotel with 3 rooms. This is here
a totally inspiring place. You can feel Amsterdam here,
that keeps reinventing itself. There’s so much room, and that was so funny.
in this hall with the artists. Here you could
spend the whole day or 2. But I want to give it to myself,
Dutch stereotypes. While I’m here,
I want to see windmills, hear clogs rattle
and smell cheese. Maybe eat, too. * Music: Götz Widmann
“Holland” * # Not far from us in the west,
there’s a little country there, that I always did when I was there,
was quite convincing. A country with old windmills
and nice little towns, with bami, vla, frikandeln
and fried meat croquettes. # 15 km north of NDSM shipyard is the open-air museum
Zaanse Schans. Amidst
a green polder landscape. We’ve seen a striking number of
Asian tourists, which is apparently particularly fascinating
are from this Hollandidylle with the Dutch symbols. It’s understandable. The museum village
is a listed building and gives an impression of it, like the people here in the 18th and 18th centuries.
and worked in the 19th century. Some houses will still be
inhabited by private individuals. In others you can use the
products manufactured here. Of course also cheese from Mrs. Antje. What looks so idyllic today,
was a vast industrial area. Around the river Zaan
almost 1,000 windmills were stretching their sails to the wind. This area is known
for their windmills. Most of them were used for water
pumped out what’s necessary, as we are below
of the sea level. These mills were small factories,
where wood, oil, paint, Spices and paper
have been produced. It was
the first industrial area in the world. * Music * Today, the windmills
still in use like more than 300 years ago,
than small production facilities. If Philip
the tree trunks, is the
not a tourist attraction, It’s his day-to-day work. It’s called maturing. The tree trunk comes
into the water for at least one year. It’s a larch,
that was in the water for a year. It’ll get all the stuff out,
who make the tree grow. The quality improves. After you have cut the wood
it won’t go away anymore. Under water
no oxygen to the wood. It kills all the bacteria,
that trigger the rotting process. Watered wood is 3,000 times
more durable than normal. There used to be more than
200 sawmills in the region. Even then, the wind was
a whimsical energy source. Philip sets sail.
The wind plays along. So that inside
the mechanics get going. Wood from the sawmill
is with the customers not only because of his
good quality very much in demand. It’s also because here.
special requests can be fulfilled. Thanks to the old technique. We fix the trunk so firmly
as possible on this car. See the whole construction. That’s where the wood comes in.
with screw clamps. The entire wagon will be
through the saw blades. The wood is intended for the
Restoration of an old castle, 25 km west of here. They buy the wood from us, because we have very specific dimensions
to be able to make. Directly opposite the sawmill goes Müller Piet
to another job. In his camp he fetches a
Champagne chalk replenishment. The wet stone lumps
lie here to dry, before further processing
can become. This chalk will be used later
for the marking lines used on the soccer field
or as a noble wall paint. The color mill “De Kat” is
the most visited mill in Holland. Piet is proud of it, a historical monument
to keep the world alive. Colour mills are very rare.
Worldwide there are only a few left. We have 1,200 mills in Holland,
but only a paint mill. That’s what makes us so special. We have many grain mills,
Water mills. We have sawmills,
5 oil press mills, but paint mills only one. The customers come here
for a special shade. If you’re looking for a hue,
they call Farbmühle “De Kat”. She’ll have it. That’s what we like to believe
at the sight of the many colors. You’ll be a large part
made from natural stone. Here is just burned Siena
from Italy. Used for restoration work, when historical colors
are required. At least 3 hours the 2,000 kg
grinding heavy millstones, until the pigment is fine enough. Piet has been a color miller for 35 years.
His knowledge is impressive. The pigment is Siena from Italy.
It is also used by Rembrandt. Then he’ll take us with him.
to his workshop, which, like a laboratory.
from earlier times. Here you can see
not a technical device. Small quantities of pigments are
with linseed oil, which as a binding agent and in the neighboring mill
is produced, mixed. That’s exactly how Rembrandt did it,
Vermeer and co. Today we have
a chemical paint industry. Most people work
with a chemical pigment. But the earth tones are so beautiful. And the oil smells lovely, too. * Music * The right products, the most beautiful products
are always made with hands. Always, and it has to stay that way. * Music * In Piet’s workshop
there are also workshops, in which is shown,
how to make colors. * Music * We say goodbye to
the Zaanse Schans and the excursion into the past centuries,
that are still alive here. The country tour continues, east of Amsterdam to Ijburg
at the Ijsselmeer, into the present. Or is it the future?
Living on the water. Water is always an issue here. For centuries the Dutch must have
keep the water under control. That’s how it is, that a lot of experimentation is going on here.
with living on the water. It’s raining more
by climate change. The water has to go somewhere. In a country
where there’s not much room, it’s smart to live on it. Then you have 2 flies
with one flap. The Dutch contribution
on the climate debate there’s a lot of interest. A lot of people come here
to look at this form of living. * Music * What’s special is, that apart from this basic form.
there were no aesthetic rules. Everyone was allowed to do what they wanted.
These are individual builders. Each of them
was allowed to design the house like this, as he pleases. There’s one over there,
there’s a quote on it: “I’m not running with the herd.” In Latin. That’s what it says on the front. Houseboats of a different kind. Like this swan’s nest.
the houses rise or fall with the water level. Floating concrete tubs,
attached to stakes, form the foundations. Interesting was also
the technical background. To connect the houses to
I had a lot of wiring. It wasn’t easy. They had little experience with that. The idea of using the water
to live on, in houses where you have to
I don’t feel like I’m in a boat, but as in a
floating house, that’s new. A bit like in a boat
you feel, because it’s swaying. We were allowed to spontaneously
when this couple moves in a glimpse
into one of the houses. You’re 150 square meters,
have 3 floors and are so bright, that you have the feeling,
to be outside. It’s great when you’re here
sitting there looking out at the water. When the sun is shining.
the reflection on the ceiling. This is a super quiet neighborhood. We moved here from the center,
and the lifestyle is very different. It’s very relaxed,
and there’s room. You’re giving up something.
The center is really great. But here we get
I’m going back a little too. For example the luxury
of an airy roof terrace and the possibility
to jump in the water every morning. When sea levels rise, the inhabitants of this settlement
everything right. Far from the centre
they’re not removed either. In less than 20 minutes they’ll be
in the middle of life. * Music * I’m in the notorious
Red light district De Wallen. Where the prostitutes
in shop windows. When it gets dark.
here the masses through the alleys. Mariska used to live here.
as a prostitute. Today she sits down
for the sex workers, as she calls the women, a
and fight for it, that with respect
be treated. This is Bella.
She is my best friend. I put it here in 2007. I wanted a sculpture.
a powerful sex worker, standing in her own window.
and the world: Yeah, I’m a prostitute. She looks proud. She’s proud
and she demands respect. That’s an important statement. We’re in De Wallen,
the famous red-light district. What is different here
than other red light neighborhoods? The decisive difference
and the reason why I’m not I feel at home is,
that it’s also a residential area. This is the oldest part
of Amsterdam, and the sex industry
is a bit far integrated into normal life
or vice versa. Many people
live and work here, but have nothing
to do with the sex business. That makes
the special atmosphere here. On the map you can see, as in the middle of this quarter
around the Oude Kerk. Party tourism,
Sex cinemas and coffee shops. The city of Amsterdam would like
the neighborhood’s image. It’s supposed to be cleaner and more beautiful.
and thus become safer. Public money has been used
into a revaluation program. Noble shops and hip restaurants
sprout out of the ground. Whether that’s the situation
of the prostitutes? Mariska
sees the development with skepticism. Do you want it to stay,
what it’s like? – Yes, exactly. But it’s already gone,
like it used to be. A few years ago we had more
Windows, 150 closed. Just like a lot of coffee shops. The neighborhood’s changed,
the atmosphere, too. How many windows are there left? About 360, 370 are still there. You want more? We used to have 500 windows. As a consequence.
Sex-workers have no place to work. The attitude behind it is faith,
when they close the windows and the women
can’t work anymore, that they have problems like human trafficking.
to be able to fight the war. But it happens underground. It’s not easy for me to be so frank.
to talk about prostitution. Mariska, please,
to be careful with the camera. The women let
I don’t like to film myself. Estimated 10,000 prostitutes
working in the city, that’s more than anywhere else in Europe. Directly below the Oude Kerk
operates Mariska the Prostitution Information Center. A mixture
from museum and meeting place. Different people are coming,
Students, tourists, Sex workers, johns, politicians. What do they want to know? They want to know how much,
how long, who, where, why. How exactly does it work? Rent
the prostitutes are window-shopping? Window prostitution is
the most independent way of working. You’re independent. The windows belong
between different landlords, who usually own the house. You’ve got the window in front,
the bedroom behind it. You pay rent per shift for that. You can choose, whether during the day
or work at night. For each shift you pay
between 80 and 180 Euro. That’s a few hours?
– 8 to 10 h. A guided tour with Mariska
we weren’t allowed to film. But we got one without a camera.
very recommendable. Because you know a lot about women.
behind the windows. Good morning Amsterdam to day 4. Today, the Rijksmuseum
on the program. The Museum Quarter
is in the south of the city. Less than 10 minutes from the canal belt. This is where the town of
something funny to come up with. With the Amsterdam letters
everyone’s having fun. * Music * The Rijksmuseum is a
of the most important museums in Europe. For 10 years, it’s been
spectacular conversion closed. Since reopening in 2013
the stream of visitors doesn’t stop. The National Museum
is one reason, why Amsterdam as a City-Trip
is so popular. I’m impressed with the atrium, a light, modern hall
surrounded by old walls. The conversion cost EUR 375 million and is therefore one of the most expensive
Construction projects in the Netherlands. 8,000 paintings and
historical objects in 80 halls. It would take several days,
to take a look at all this. The heart
is the Ancestral Gallery. with the great masters
from the Golden Age. Jan Vermeer, Frans Hals, Jan Steen
and what they’re all called. What’s striking is that here,
unlike other museums, I’m allowed to photograph,
without lightning, of course. Gregor Weber is waiting for me. He was also responsible for the successful
Rembrandt Exhibition 2015. We stroll together
through the ancestral gallery. Enthusiastically he tells me
of the new museum concept, that goes down well. I think the museum
after reopening in 2013 reinvented. It’s like in the old days.
had separated all things. Painting was on one floor,
Arts and crafts on another, the Department of History
in the basement. Actually, the following explain themselves
the 3 divisions together. In this respect, the new concept,
that you’ve thought about it, how can we tell the story
the Netherlands and art so bring them together,
she’s telling us more. There’s this room.
a wonderful example. You get in
and sees a big ship. Everybody understands a ship
has something to do with the Netherlands. As a seafaring nation engaged in commerce
has become very rich. To that extent
there’s a model ship in the middle. On the other hand.
it had to be defended. In that sense, we’re all hung around.
famous sea battles. That’s how you really get easier access
to the paintings. History becomes tangible. The objects
seem to explain each other. That’s how I’m going to get
this ship’s crest makes sense. But of course he’s
the museum’s superstar. It’s hard in front of so many people,
his most famous painting, “The Night’s Watch, full size.
to get a look at you. You have to be patient. But if you can do it,
you’re immediately captivated. Gregor Weber hasn’t seen me without
Reason towards the end of visiting hours to the museum. The ranks are dwindling. We’ll be up in a few seconds,
now, in front of the world-famous Night’s Watch. It’s my first time.
You have seen it thousands of times. Does it still knock you out?
– Absolutely. I think it’s great.
Not only because it’s great. It’s one of the biggest pictures,
Rembrandt painted. I think it’s done great. Not just the colors,
how he’s staging it. A group portrait is a
A line of people. Normally, other painters have
and the good work was done. Everyone wants to come to the fore
and show themselves very clearly. Rembrandt deviates from this. He’s thinking,
to represent a moment. That you can see how the group
is in motion. Which means that Rembrandt doesn’t
in the same way. Some are to be seen with a head,
Some people only have a nose. It’s like you’re
take a snapshot from a group,
that seems little staged. But that’s the art. Cause it’s super staged.
The main characters in the foreground. Then it swings away to the sides. Left and right
people come forward again. Is it true that Rembrandt
got in trouble for this picture? It was a commission. These gentlemen have all
the same amount, but are of different quality
to recognize. We don’t know,
if they all paid the same amount. All we know is, Rembrandt’s gonna have
1,600 guilders. There are 16 people in this picture,
I mentioned it by name. There are, however.
a lot more to see. There are about 30 to see. It’s a free choice.
Rembrandt’s. Like the little boy, running after the captain.
and fires a shot. He’s certainly not a portrait.
You don’t see a face. He needs those figures,
the girl, too, to make this more alive. Some of them all you can see
a little detail. Also these are surely Figures that aren’t portraits, which in this respect
I didn’t pay for it either. So 1,600 guilders for everyone. Then I’m sure the Captain
in the foreground 150 guilders paid. And the one who’s only half-figured
in the back is 50 guilders. How much was that worth today? 100 guilders earned one
unskilled worker in the year. So it’s pretty good, then. A schoolmaster
earned 200 to 250 guilders. A lot of money.
– A lot of money, that’s right. You have me
for Rembrandt. Just now?
– Yes, I did. Right now. Thank you. Thank you.
– Here you go. * Music * Amsterdam and art. Here you can
more museums per square metre than in any other
European city. The Stedelijk Museum,
right next to the Van Gogh Museum, houses a
of the most important collections modern and contemporary art. Alone in the Museumsquartier
you could spend days. And in the breaks.
breathe deeply into the green areas. You can’t tell a secret tip. But this is one of many gardens
in Amsterdam, that you might not
on his sightseeing list. But they’re worth it,
to be seen. Directly at the Reichsmuseum. Most of them come
out of her art marathon here. and forget the garden. You can’t do that, can you? * Music * We’re back at the canal belt. Behind the gabled houses hide
small garden paradises. But you usually get them.
not to face. Martje prefers to enjoy her garden,
than work a lot inside. We’re pretty lazy gardeners. That’s all we do,
what we think is beautiful. A real plan
we don’t pursue when we’re gardening. That works wonderfully. Mother Nature does it alone. No work at all
of course you can’t. Martje regularly takes
on the open garden days. 25 private gardens
are then open to the public. Anyone can take a look behind the
throwing the backdrops of the canal houses. It’s nice to be able to remember
open garden days. Because the visitors are so positive. They’re so happy, a view into the garden
and, above all, throw it in the house. Because you rarely
has the opportunity to do so. We welcome you and appreciate
all the positive reactions. * Music * Less wild, but beguilingly beautiful this garden
in the Herengracht. You can also use it during
of the open garden days. The people,
who come here, say, that it
one of the most beautiful gardens. If not the most beautiful. You’re supposed to be modest. But I have to say, it’s true. It’s really unique,
to have such a big garden, who then also
has so much sun. Most canal gardens
are in the shade. Because of the big trees around it. That’s very nice, too. But this garden
is extraordinary. This garden is the result of one for over 20 years
living together. When the kids were growing up.
the residents joined together and created this jewel. They’re really proud of that. I still don’t feel it.
as something special and enjoy it very much. When I’m out of the warm, vibrant
I’m coming out of the back door of the city. I’m stepping into the garden,
it’s so quiet. The birds are singing.
And we sit here. And I wonder: How is it possible
that I can be here? If you don’t want to be in the garden during the garden days.
in Amsterdam, to him we recommend a look
into the garden of the Van Loon Museum. He’s a year-round
opened. The 17th century garden. shows the garden culture
of the Golden Age. Gardens were a thing of the past.
a status symbol and demonstrated
the wealth of their owners. The Van Loon family was one of the
most important families of Amsterdam and co-founder
of the East Indian Trade Company. In the museum you can visit the
in a room with precious furnishings, like the rich merchant families
lived back then. * Music * World capital of freedom, she deserved that title,
the city? I think so, yes. You can feel it no matter which way you look at it.
you’re on your way, that special attitude to life. Amsterdam and the Amsterdam people
are cool. Shall we see what’s inside? * Music * I hope you like
our Amsterdam belly shop. Thanks ever wel for watching.
Tot ziens. * Music * Copyright WDR 2017

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